Here is a great list from my good friend, Steve, who lives in Denver, but knows Cozumel as well as most Cozumeleños. A visitor for more than 20 years, fluent in Spanish and a lover of all things Mexican (it is rumored he won’t eat menudo). You can’t go wrong with Steve’s recommendations.
: : DOWNTOWN AREA RESTAURANTS
• Coffee Cozumel – Calle 3 just off the water – next door to Pizza Hut – best espresso and coffee on the island. Outstanding breakfast – do not miss the Chilaquiles!! Gorgeous fruit salad/granola – fresh squeezed juices. Everything the kitchen turns out is excellent.
• Panaderia Zermatt – Ave 5 @ Calle 4 – great pastries, empanadas & brew coffee – also have basic but tasty pizza by the slice – small patio in front. Locals hangout in the a.m.
• Las Palmeras – Ave Melgar on the waterfront directly across from the downtown ferry pier. A Cozumel tradition that still delivers very tasty food with unparalleled people watching. If you are a mole fan ask for the “traditional”-style chicken mole enchiladas (you’ll instantly be considered a local). Caldo Xochitl is delicious. Good breakfast. Good cocktails and an excellent beer selection. Reasonable.
• Restaurant del Museo – Ave Melgar on the waterfront N of the downtown. Unquestionably one of the best views on the island. Very tasty breakfast and lunch – Yucatecan/Mexican food. Reasonable.
• Cocina Economica Toñita – Calle Salas between Ave 10 & 15 – great breakfast and lunch – at lunch time ask for the “Comida del Dia” menu (2 – 3 inexpensive daily specials that always come with fabulous vegetable soup). Close early.
• El Foco – Ave 5 between Calle Salas & Calle 1 – excellent tacos and sincronizadaz (fancy quesadillas) – the chile queso and arrachera tacos are superb – frijoles charros are the best on the island and perhaps in all of México – inexpensive.
• Los Otates – Ave 15 between Calle Salas & Calle 1 – outstanding posole and excellent tacos – arrachera tacos are superb – Inexpensive.
• Cocteleria Popeye – Calle 2 between Ave 25 & 30 – outstanding seafood and unquestionably the BEST ceviche I’ve ever had anywhere – get the “ceviche mixto“. Fried shrimp are amazingly delish. Unfortunately they close early – around 5-6 p.m.
• La Perlita – Calle 10 between Ave 65 & 70 (hard to find – take a taxi if you’re not sure) – super fresh and delicious fish – excellent prices – worth seeking out. Try the lionfish – very tasty. Inquire if they have fresh whole crab – it is always superb.
• Conchita del Caribe – Ave 60 just S of Calle 11 – outstanding ceviches – the whole boquinete (hog fish) is superb – order it fried and ask ’em to cook it “suave” (tender).
• Parilla La Mission – Ave. 30 – excellent carne Tampiqueña – good mole poblano.
• Casa Denis – On the N side of the downtown plaza – hard to miss. Good place for traditional Yucatecan fare and Mexican food too. They have been there for decades so check out the cool Fidel/Che/Hemingway photos inside. Reasonable.
• Guidos – Ave Melgar on the waterfront on the N end of downtown – tasty Italian – excellent wood oven pizza – innovative specials – pricey.
• Le Chef /Le Bistrot – Ave 5 @ Calle 5 Sur – very tasty Ital-Mediterranean + good prices. Pretty good/inexpensive wine list.
• Sorrisi – Calle 3 next door to Pizza Hut – Reasonably good Italian – Pricey. (I like Guido’s, Le Chef or Le Bistrot better.)
• Cafe Rolandi – Melgar @ Calle 11 – Stunning waterside setting and excellent food – the wood-fired oven dishes are excellent. Pricey. At a minimum go for a cocktail or a glass of wine and enjoy the view and ambience – great sunset location.
• Gelato Sorrisi– Melgar @ Calle 3 – outstanding gelato – usually open ’till 11:00.
• El Moro – Ave 75 bis between calle 2 and 4 (hard to find – take a taxi if you’re not sure) – the Campeche shrimp are huge and delicious (don’t steer from “mojo de ajo” preparation) – garlic soup (w/ or w/out and egg) is world-class delicious – most everything is excellent.
• Los Seras – on Ave 30- BEST in the universe “Tacos al Pastor” and… everything else is so-so. No beer but it’s a-ok to bring your own – spending $10 there is a major challenge. Open till 2-3 a.m.!
• No Name Bar – Cool beach club located right on the water within the Hotel Barracuda. There is a not immediately obvious entrance on the S side. A great place to chill, have a beer or a bite. I’ve also heard they serve Turkish Food.
• Blue Angel Resort Restaurant – A mile or so south of downtown in the Blue Angel Resort. Tasty food (breakfast/lunch/dinner) in a killer location right on the water overlooking the Caribbean. Excellent made to order margaritas! Great sunset location – grab a beer or cocktail and relax by the pool!
• Kinta – Avenida 5 between Calle 2 & 4 – One of Cozumel’s best high-end restaurant – up-scale dining – innovative preparation of mexican-yucatán-seafood. Lovely patio. Pricey.
• Ohana – Avenida 5 between Calle 6 & 8 – Jamaican theme food and dependably good live music in the lovely back patio.
• La Cocay – Calle 8 between Ave 10 & 15 – Snazzy up-scale dining – tasty innovative food and good wine – gorgeous salads – lovely atmosphere. Pricey.
• Palapita de en Medio – Across from Villa Blanca Hotel S of town. Cool “on-the water” location . GREAT salsa/cubano music evening/night – salsa dancing lessons every Friday!
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: : BEACH/EAST-SIDE RESTAURANTS
• Playa Palancar – On the WEST side a few miles up from Punta Sur. Beautiful beach, tranquil water. Outstanding BIG margaritas – tasty food – fish tacos are excellent.
• Paradise-Rastas – EAST side on the southern tip – excellent margaritas – shrimp quesadillas & guacamole – reggae rules and it’s right on the beach!
• Punta Morena – EAST side – food is tasty – a bit pricey – beaches are excellent – beach just to the south has a small protected cove that is a beautiful natural whirlpool bath!
• Sandra’s – On the “transversal” road that heads E from downtown to the other side – about a mile or so before you reach the east side. Food at Sandra’s other restaurant has always been exceptional. Sandra, the owner, only serves the freshest and best available – if whole boquinete (hog fish) is available, get it – fabulous! Order it fried and ask ’em to cook it “suave” (tender).