Here are few things to do in Mérida, whether you are there as a tourist, or trying to take care of business. After several visits in the last year, we can offer some advice about how to get there, where to stay and eat and how to get around. We found a few more gems, as the city slowly reveals it’s hidden charms.
First, let’s talk about the route. Looking at a map, it may be unclear about the best route from Playa. We prefer the Tulum, Cobá, Valladolid route for three reasons. It is quicker, cheaper, and more interesting. By taking this route and getting on the cuota north of Valladolid, you avoid the toll booth that is between Cancun and Valladolid which costs $241 mn. If you are in a hurry, get on the toll road here and only pay $140 mn the rest of the way to Mérida. Not in a hurry? Take the free (libre) road through the small towns including Chichén Itza (Pisté) and Libre Union. We usually make the trip in four hours, including one gas and one food stop.
Eating spots along the way include several places in Tulum. We like Tacos de Arbol, with cazuela style tacos. It is on the main highway just past the traffic light on the left. Most of the good selections are gone by 1:00. We like the mole, pollo tinga and chile relleno (although the last one had a pica rating of 9) tacos. If you have taken the 6:00 am car ferry (which now runs Monday through Saturday), you could stop at Turtle Bay Cafe and Bakery in Akumal. Great baked products and unforgettable eggs benedict with crab.
If you choose to skip the cuota entirely AND it is Saturday, don’t miss the little road side stand on the left in Libre Union (about 20 minutes east of Chichén Itza) for mucbill pollo. A large tamale shaped like a round loaf of sourdough with chicken, it was better than any version we had in Mérida restaurants. It was two meals for two people.
We have enjoyed our stays at Luz en Yucatan in centro. This time, we found a casita listed on Air B&B that was north of centro, near Costco and MEGA. Being close to Costco for the great wine selection was handy, but an unexpected surprise was a restaurant called Los Benes. Tucked away in an industrial neighborhood, the happening spot specializes in eggs benedict and waffles with fresh fruit and is always busy. Perfectly poached eggs on real english muffins with real Canadian bacon. Highly recommended.
In between appointments, we visit Las Brisas mall at least once, on Av. Correa Racho on the NE side of the city near the Periférico. Sears, Tommy Hilfiger, Radio Shack, a large assortment of clothing stores, a decent Italian restaurant, a Chiles (avoided it) and a huge food court. We like Gong Fat Chinese for terrific BBQ pork, stir-fried vegies and szechuan beef. Good, cheap and fast – how often does that happen?
There is a large Cinépolis, and we had our first Cinépolis VIP experience. Nice, wide leather chairs (think business class), waiter service (sushi, wine, beer, margaritas or coffee). Oh yeah, the leather chairs recline and have a foot rest. VIP sounds more impressive than Cinépolis Lazy Boy.
Close to Alta Brisa Mall is a terrific Thai place called Casa Thai. Great green papaya salad and green curry turned out by the native Bangkok chef. It is on Av. Yucatan, near the Periférico and has a large golden buddha on the roof. Best to Google it to find the location. At the moment there is no Facebook page or web site.
To get around Mérida, we recommend using Google Maps (print a couple versions before your trip) and the maps found in the magazine, Yucatan Today. Still, it can be maddening to deal with the one-way streets, round-abouts and no-left turns at major intersections. The names and number of streets change with each new Colonia – very confusing. Also, be aware that there during June-September 2012 there is street construction in centro. Avoid driving through the center by getting directions from your hotel so you can avoid gridlock.
There are a ton of places to visit outside of the city: cenotes, beaches, Mayan ruins, haciendas and nature preserves. We love to go east of the city to Telchac Pueblo, where friends are renovating a former henequen plantation. This time, we have a photo of the night sky, untouched by light pollution.
Not sure when we’ll return, but we know how to enjoy the city when we do. – M. Lewis
